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4.7 star rating
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What is the best alternative to Edelrid Mega Jul?
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Camp Matik
All
12
Experiences
Pros
7
Cons
4
Specs
Top
Pro
Ambidextrous
Easier to pay out slack left-handed than a GriGri
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Top
Con
More sensitive to rope type
"It doesn't like stiff ropes or fat ropes for this application, nor was it designed as such. I had the best luck with malleable Sterling ropes such as the Nano and Helix, and it also performed extremely well on the Mammut 8.7 and 9.2 ropes. Anything 9.8 and above, and performance starts to suffer significantly, as it's pretty hard to get rope to feed through the device smoothly."
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Top
Pro
Easy to pay out rope
The camming system of the Matik is designed to allow a small amount of rope to slip.
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Top
Con
Heavy
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Top
Pro
Dynamic catching action
"unlike other mechanical assisted locking models, it boasts a gradual camming action that produces a dynamic catch and can reportedly reduce impact forces by as much as 40%." "This isn't particularly relevant if you are squared away with modern dynamic soft catch techniques as a lead belayer, but it is extremely relevant when you are belaying directly off an anchor. "
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Top
Con
Not quite as smooth as a GriGri
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Top
Pro
Durable
The Matik's friction surfaces are all made of cast stainless steel.
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Top
Con
No double rope rappel
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Top
Pro
Guide mode / Belay off anchor
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Top
Pro
Active assisted braking
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Top
Pro
Anti-panic handle
The lowering mechanism includes an anti-panic system that automatically stops the rope if the belayer pulls the handle too hard or loses control.
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Specs
Weight:
275 g (9.7 oz)
Material:
Stainless steel friction surfaces
Rope diameter:
8.6 - 10.2 mm
Assisted braking:
Active
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Experiences
199.95
2
0
Petzl GriGri 2
All
10
Experiences
Pros
3
Cons
6
Specs
Top
Con
Tuber-style belay technique doesn't work well
Impossible >9.8mm and disappointing below.
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Top
Pro
Active assisted braking
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Top
Con
No double rope rappel
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Top
Pro
Auto-locks even if brake line is not held
In case belayer is disabled, etc.
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Top
Con
Locking cam can be defeated if the grigri is pushed against a bolt/rock/obstruction
Impossible to hold large falls even with correct technique if this occurs, as there is little to no friction when the cam is open.
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Top
Pro
Guide mode / Belay off anchor
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Top
Con
Lowering is finicky
The lowering handle quickly transitions from "not fast enough" to "too fast", leading to using brake hand friction to slow the descent, which can cause a rope burn and involuntary release of the brake.
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Top
Con
Rope can get caught behind the rotating pinch groove after catching a fall
Results in the rope being stuck.
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Top
Con
False sense of security in some situations
The easiest belay device to use incorrectly. People who don’t know what they are doing use these without holding brake end of rope all the time because they falsely believe it is “auto-locking”. Some tension in the rope through the device is actually required to ensure it locks- this means never letting go of the brake strand.
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Specs
Weight:
170 g (6.0 oz)
Material:
Stainless steel cam and friction plate
Rope diameter:
8.9 - 11 mm
Assisted braking:
Active
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Experiences
99.95
22
3
Petzl GriGri+
All
8
Experiences
Pros
6
Cons
1
Specs
Top
Pro
Anti-panic handle
See More
Top
Con
No double rope rappel
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Top
Pro
Active assisted braking
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Top
Pro
Auto-locks even if brake line is not held
In case belayer is disabled, etc.
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Top
Pro
Switchable between top rope and lead mode
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Top
Pro
Wide range of rope diameters
(8.5mm- 11mm)
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Top
Pro
Guide mode / Belay off anchor
https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Belaying-a-second-directly-off-a-fixed-anchor-at-the-belay-station?ProductName=GRIGRI-2
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Specs
Weight:
200 g (7.0 oz)
Material:
Stainless steel friction/wear plates
Rope diameter:
8.5 - 11 mm
Assisted braking:
Active
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Experiences
149.95
7
3
Mad Rock Lifeguard
All
5
Experiences
Pros
2
Cons
2
Specs
Top
Con
Lowering is more finicky than Grigri
Quickly transitions from "too slow" to "too fast".
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Top
Pro
More compact than a Grigri2
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Top
Con
No "lip" to grab while feeding slack quickly
While it typically feeds slack better than a Grigri, so the Grigri "fast feed" technique is not necessary, it can still sometimes get jammed. The "fast feed" Grigri technique of putting fingers under the metal lip and pressing down on the cam is not as easy to do on the Lifeguard as it is on Grigri.
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Top
Pro
Feeds rope to leader without special technique
Feeds slack somewhat more easily than Grigri, if the brake strand is lifted up and fed into the device (like belaying with a tube device).
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Specs
Weight:
154 g (5.4 oz)
Rope diameter:
8.9 - 11mm
Assisted braking:
Active
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89
3
2
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