If you haven't swapped out wall switches before, it can be tricky. You will have to un-wire the old one, and wire the new one to the existing wires. The instructions use some jargon that isn't explained, which you will need to figure out before the instructions make any sense ('line' means the wire coming from the breaker, 'load' means the wire going to the light fixture, and 'traveler' means the wire(s) that runs between multiple switches that control the same light.
Using a Z-Wave programmer (aka a master controller), you can essentially flip the switch's software (if you installed it upside-down, intentionally or accidentally, the software can compensate for that). Also, the LED indicator can be programmed to turn on when the light is on, which is very useful for lights you can't see - ie outdoor lights.
There is a small blue LED indicator on the bottom right of the switch. By default, it turns on when the light is off, allowing you to easier see where the switch is in the dark. If you have a Z-Wave programmer however, you can change it to be the opposite - when the light is on the LED is on. This can be useful for lights outside, or other situations where you can't immediately tell if the device is on or off.
The neutral wire is needed for this wall switch - it simply won't function without it. Older houses may not have the wiring required for these switches to work.
Once installed, these look like just any regular old light switch. They will fit into any house just fine without drawing any attention to themselves. It's the best way to upgrade the tech in your house without changing the way it looks at all.
This switch doesn't automatically update the system when it activates or deactivates, meaning the controlling system won't know if the switch is activated or deactivated until it polls each device itself. This means that if the switch is actuated manually, your app won't know that the light is on.
This switch is only meant to be used from 32-104 Fahrenheit (0-40 Celsius). This switch may fail if installed in an unheated garage, or during a power outage in the middle of winter.
This switch enables instant control over different 'scenes' (groups of lights) all at once. Each scene has it's own LED indicator that lights up when the scene is activated, and turns off when it is deactivated.
Out of the box, the switch is left blank. However, if you choose, there are generic labels in the box (Welcome, All on, Movie, Dining Room, Goodnite etc) which can be attached to remind you which button controls which scene.
While it would be useful if the vertical button on the right could control a light itself, instead it just turns off the scenes controlled by the other buttons. This switch can't control individual lights unless you configure that light as a scene all by itself.
There is a small blue LED indicator that turns on when the light is turned on. This is especially useful for outdoor lights, or garage lights where you can't always tell if they are on or not from where the switch is located.
This switch offers an option to automatically turn off after a set period of time - ideal for hallways where you only need light for a minute or two. This is also very useful in bedrooms - turn your lights on when you are getting ready to go to bed, then they will automatically turn off after your preferred period of time. This delay can be up to 4 minutes.
For what it offers, this is an expensive solution. It doesn't offer dimming, and the push button style of trigger isn't as flattering as a touch-enabled trigger.
Its looks are deceiving as the switch surface isn't capacitive - you will need to apply enough force to push the button in. When the switch actuates, it will make a small click noise.
Once installed, these look like just any regular old light switch. They will fit into any house just fine without drawing any attention to themselves. It's the best way to upgrade the tech in your house without changing the way it looks at all.
Using a Z-Wave programmer (aka a master controller), you can essentially flip the switch's software (if you installed it upside-down, intentionally or accidentally, the software can compensate for that).
Also, by default, when flicking the switch the lights won't turn on/off immediately - instead they will slowly fade on or off. If you have a Z-Wave programmer, you can change the speed of the fading to something quicker or slower, or can remove the fading altogether and instantly turn on or off.
If you haven't swapped out wall switches before, it can be tricky. You will have to un-wire the old one, and wire the new one to the existing wires. The instructions use some jargon that isn't explained, which you will need to figure out before the instructions make any sense ('line' means the wire coming from the breaker, 'load' means the wire going to the light fixture, and 'traveler' means the wire(s) that runs between multiple switches that control the same light.
The neutral wire is needed for this wall switch - it simply won't function without it. Older houses may not have the wiring required for these switches to work.
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