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Add to SafariWhen comparing Petzl GriGri 2 vs Mad Rock Lifeguard, the Slant community recommends Petzl GriGri 2 for most people. In the question“What are the best belay devices for rock climbing?” Petzl GriGri 2 is ranked 1st while Mad Rock Lifeguard is ranked 5th.
Specs
Question Ranking
Pros
Pro Active assisted braking
Pro Auto-locks even if brake line is not held
In case belayer is disabled, etc.
Pro Guide mode / Belay off anchor
Pro More compact than a Grigri2
Pro Feeds rope to leader without special technique
Feeds slack somewhat more easily than Grigri, if the brake strand is lifted up and fed into the device (like belaying with a tube device).
Cons
Con Tuber-style belay technique doesn't work well
Impossible >9.8mm and disappointing below.
Con No double rope rappel
Con Locking cam can be defeated if the grigri is pushed against a bolt/rock/obstruction
Impossible to hold large falls even with correct technique if this occurs, as there is little to no friction when the cam is open.
Con Lowering is finicky
The lowering handle quickly transitions from "not fast enough" to "too fast", leading to using brake hand friction to slow the descent, which can cause a rope burn and involuntary release of the brake.
Con Rope can get caught behind the rotating pinch groove after catching a fall
Results in the rope being stuck.
Con False sense of security in some situations
The easiest belay device to use incorrectly. People who don’t know what they are doing use these without holding brake end of rope all the time because they falsely believe it is “auto-locking”. Some tension in the rope through the device is actually required to ensure it locks- this means never letting go of the brake strand.
Con Lowering is more finicky than Grigri
Quickly transitions from "too slow" to "too fast".
Con No "lip" to grab while feeding slack quickly
While it typically feeds slack better than a Grigri, so the Grigri "fast feed" technique is not necessary, it can still sometimes get jammed. The "fast feed" Grigri technique of putting fingers under the metal lip and pressing down on the cam is not as easy to do on the Lifeguard as it is on Grigri.
