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Add to SafariWhen comparing Edelrid Mega Jul vs Mad Rock Lifeguard, the Slant community recommends Mad Rock Lifeguard for most people. In the question“What are the best belay devices for rock climbing?” Mad Rock Lifeguard is ranked 5th while Edelrid Mega Jul is ranked 12th.
Specs
Question Ranking
Pros
Pro Auto-locks even if brake end of rope is not held
In case belayer is disabled, etc.
Pro Lightweight
Pro Passive assisted braking
Pro Three rappelling modes
Can be used in 2 orientations, for rappelling with or without brake assist, and can add a carabiner for lever action, making it similar to a GriGri.
Pro More compact than a Grigri2
Pro Feeds rope to leader without special technique
Feeds slack somewhat more easily than Grigri, if the brake strand is lifted up and fed into the device (like belaying with a tube device).
Cons
Con Behavior is highly dependent on rope diameter and type
"stiff ropes feed very poorly. 9.7 and above ropes feed poorly for lead belay. Soft and supple skinny ropes don't lock as abruptly. Half ropes in the 8-8.5 range DO NOT LOCK FULLY with the proper edelrid strike biner" https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/6aoipn/nonjerky_method_for_rapping_with_mega_jul_in/dhh1vvx/
Con Guide mode with thin ropes can flip and disable auto-blocking
Video demonstration with stories of it happening in the comments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=385cP_FYNEs
Con Lowering is more finicky than Grigri
Quickly transitions from "too slow" to "too fast".
Con No "lip" to grab while feeding slack quickly
While it typically feeds slack better than a Grigri, so the Grigri "fast feed" technique is not necessary, it can still sometimes get jammed. The "fast feed" Grigri technique of putting fingers under the metal lip and pressing down on the cam is not as easy to do on the Lifeguard as it is on Grigri.
