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If you haven't swapped out wall switches before, it can be tricky. You will have to un-wire the old one, and wire the new one to the existing wires. The instructions use some jargon that isn't explained, which you will need to figure out before the instructions make any sense ('line' means the wire coming from the breaker, 'load' means the wire going to the light fixture, and 'traveler' means the wire(s) that runs between multiple switches that control the same light. See More
Using a Z-Wave programmer (aka a master controller), you can essentially flip the switch's software (if you installed it upside-down, intentionally or accidentally, the software can compensate for that). Also, the LED indicator can be programmed to turn on when the light is on, which is very useful for lights you can't see - ie outdoor lights. See More
There is a small blue LED indicator on the bottom right of the switch. By default, it turns on when the light is off, allowing you to easier see where the switch is in the dark. If you have a Z-Wave programmer however, you can change it to be the opposite - when the light is on the LED is on. This can be useful for lights outside, or other situations where you can't immediately tell if the device is on or off. See More
This switch doesn't automatically update the system when it activates or deactivates, meaning the controlling system won't know if the switch is activated or deactivated until it polls each device itself. This means that if the switch is actuated manually, your app won't know that the light is on. See More
This switch offers an option to automatically turn off after a set period of time - ideal for hallways where you only need light for a minute or two. This is also very useful in bedrooms - turn your lights on when you are getting ready to go to bed, then they will automatically turn off after your preferred period of time. This delay can be up to 4 minutes. See More
If you haven't swapped out wall switches before, it can be tricky. You will have to un-wire the old one, and wire the new one to the existing wires. The instructions use some jargon that isn't explained, which you will need to figure out before the instructions make any sense ('line' means the wire coming from the breaker, 'load' means the wire going to the light fixture, and 'traveler' means the wire(s) that runs between multiple switches that control the same light. See More
Using a Z-Wave programmer (aka a master controller), you can essentially flip the switch's software (if you installed it upside-down, intentionally or accidentally, the software can compensate for that). Also, by default, when flicking the switch the lights won't turn on/off immediately - instead they will slowly fade on or off. If you have a Z-Wave programmer, you can change the speed of the fading to something quicker or slower, or can remove the fading altogether and instantly turn on or off. See More